Kingston Black Trio

The three ciders in this series represent artfully fermented renditions of the Kingston Black apple, from fruit grown in three distinct bioregions of Washington state. Each cider is pressed and then allowed to rest at cellar temperatures until natural yeast from the apples begin a spontaneous fermentation. As the dance of apple juice and microbes progresses through a slow fermentation, the cidermakers are guided by periodic tasting, which gives clues to the cider’s ultimate identity and presentation in the glass. We encourage you to taste these ciders together (with friends!) and enjoy the sometimes subtle, sometimes overt, differences and similarities that show from a single apple cultivar when grown in different locations, presented to showcase the best of what the fruit has to offer. In doing so we celebrate the contributions of terroir, orchardist, microbe and cidermaker while triangulating the identity of the Kingston Black apple.

Wildcat Valley Orchard

Located in the heart of the Olympic Rainshadow, Wildcat Valley Farm, formally known as Dungeness Orchards, is a collection of 269 varieties of apples and other fruit and nut species planted by Chuck and Jean Parkman in the 1980’s and 1990’s. In 2014, Nicholas “Penny” Segner and wife Janelle Cole took over ownership and management of the orchard and began transitioning the land with new plantings of fruit and nut trees. These new polycultural plantings are an example of a land management paradigm called syntropic agroforestry which emphasizes a closed-loop fertility system and successional species plantings. Over time, the orchard will flourish to become a self-sustaining forest of edibles available to the public via a U-Pick membership. 

In a nod to the farm’s original orchardists, Penny shares this memory: 

In 2017, Chuck visited the orchard at the age of 93 and went on a search for his favorite apple. At first, he couldn’t remember the name but when he came upon the tree in the orchard, he remembered it by sight, pruned to a form called “slender spindle.” His favorite was indeed a fine apple, considered among the best by many for eating: Karmijn de Sonnaville.

Process

Among the numerous varieties in this original orchard is the venerable cider apple Kingston Black, which we pressed with small amounts of other apples from the orchard, including Karmijn de Sonnaville and Gravenstine. This cider was bottled before fermentation had completed to leave some residual sweetness from the original fruit and carbonated to produce a vibrant and fruity Kingston Black cider. 

Tasting Notes

In the glass, it is a pale yellow to golden straw color with lively bubbles. Behind a distinct nose of fruity cider, it shows citrus and floral notes with hints of honeysuckle and the characteristic Kingston Black “cosmetics” note. Smooth and creamy bubbles give way to potent peaks of acidity mid-palate surrounded by citrus peel, mandarin orange, melon and honey. Finishes warm and mellow with lingering umami more like white miso than cooked meat.

Iron Root Orchard

Iron Root Orchards is located a mile west of Omak, Washington, in the Okanagan River valley. Owner Jim Freese and son Shea manage over 60 acres with 45 acres in orchards that include pears, cherries, apples and other fruits, almost all of which is certified organic. Many years ago, Shea had a vision to propagate and preserve heirloom apple trees and went to great lengths - through several states and through two horrific snow storms - to find the scion wood, and graft hundreds of trees in order to plant the amazing cider fruit they now grow. Jim is a third generation orchardist whose grandfather started the farm over 100 years ago. For over ten years, their farm has been part of Global Gap, a world-wide food safety program.

In stark contrast to much of eastern washington, Iron Root focuses on heirloom apple varieties that give cider a depth of flavor that modern grocery store apples cannot provide. In addition, the Okanagan River valley has one of the best climates for growing apples, perhaps in the world. The Okanogan has four distinct seasons, with summer being mostly dry, but more importantly, sunny, which is ideal for growing apples with the full range of flavors and sugars. With the semi-arid climate, irrigation is required and this water comes from the snow melt in the near-by Cascade foothills. The dry climate is also key for organic production with reduced disease pressure. In autumn, apples need the daytime temperatures to stay warm, but the colder nights cause the apples to gain maturity for harvest by helping to deepen the color of the apples along with their sugars and acids. 

Process

The Iron Root Orchard Kingston Black has a small amount of other apples from the orchard blended in. Early on during its fermentation, it promised a little bit of funk and complex flavor. We allowed it to ferment to dryness with just a touch of lightly toasted oak cubes added during the last week before bottling to support the delicate flavors already present. A touch of sugar makes this Kingston Black off-dry and gentle carbonation elevates the delicate aromas.

Tasting Notes

In the glass, this cider appears light yellow with a gentle bit of funk on the nose reminiscent of soft cheese and grape jelly. With a medium body and slightly creamy mouthfeel, a balanced upfront acidity gives way to grape candy, with slightly bitter, warming phenolics and woody spice. Finishes with a soft astringency that diminishes to reveal a lingering sweet/tart character.

Finnriver Orchard

In 2012, Finnriver began leasing the 50-acre former Chimacum Dairy, just three miles up the road from the original home farm, to plant organic cider apple trees. Working with visionary local investors, a plan was made to renovate and re-purpose the historic dairy into the Finnriver Orchard and to find partners to help showcase how organic agriculture, rural economy and ecological restoration could all thrive together. The roots of the cidery began in friendship and farmland and now, with several thousand heirloom cider trees in the ground, farming and fermenting continue side by side on 80 acres of Chimacum Valley soils, on the north Olympic Peninsula of Washington state. 

Process

The Finnriver offering is 100% Kingston Black apples. During fermentation, it showed a robust tannin profile and well-developed fruit flavors, suggesting it would stand on its own as a still, dry cider. We allowed it to ferment completely dry and added back a touch of sweetness, transforming intense polyphenols and acids into complex flavors. A touch of medium-toast oak chips further enhances the array of flavors and aromas, and naturally occurring bubbles provide just a hint of carbonation, making this cider the most wine-like offering of the three.

Tasting Notes

In the glass, the Finnriver Orchard Kingston Black is a deep gold to amber color, giving hints of the bittersharp apple profile to come. On the nose, burnt sugar along with earthy, almost grassy aromas are followed by a robust astringency full of oak tannin and apple phenols and a hint of butterscotch on the pallet. A subdued, late-showing acid gives way to a clean, dry finish with drying astringency.